Wednesday, November 28, 2007

Varanasi - People

What makes a city so special? Varanasi has a the longest history as a city in the whole world. it has been constantly inhabited for hundreds and hundreds of years. It still is in a constant move. You can see centuries old buildings and temples, very old sewage system, open drains.... in the old part of the city close to the ghats the streets are extremely narrow, which keeps them cool under the boiling sun. Only bicycles and motorbikes can go in with the pedestrians. Cyclerikshas and autorikshas drop you close to small entrances along the bigger roads. The city is growing and developing. The city council is planning to make Varanasi the world capital! (well, we're all entitled to our dreams...) there are fancy cinemas, shopping malls with escalators and glass doors, posh cars and huge houses for single families.

But that's not what make a city, or any place, special. It's all those people there. And what makes the place close to my heart are those people i met and shared some time with. So many fascinating souls and individuals!
We had great conversations daily with an old norweigian man, who had an adorable smile and a long gray ponytail. he'd lived in india some 30 years back, and had been traveling everywhere, so you can imagine that he had so many fantastic stories to tell. not only that, he also had a lot of up-to-date opinions on different political situations in the world.
My new friend, a funny pretty lady from venezuela (who was so in love) had the most beautiful laugh, and she made me giggle when i was feeling down..
Anand, a shopkeeper, took me for rides on his motorbike, and for lunches in different places. he was always helping out (with mobile phone problems, train tickets...) and he gave me lovely presents and nice discount on my clothes EVEN if i turned his marriage proposal down.
The german bakery, that was supporting the learn-for-life society, had a bunch of young Nepali men working as waiters etc. the boys were great, fun and lovely, and in the beginning of my stay they made me fell very welcomed and at home.
a gorgeus spanish guy was (unknowingly) teaching me how to be good, by his own behavior and deeds. he was a very interesting and fascinating person, a very lovable human being.
Ok, i should make a looong list of people there, the hazelnut-eyed israeli dude, yoga-souled flatmate, other sweet shopkeepers...but i save you for now. i'm sure you understand that they all made a difference and brought meaning to the specialty of that city.

But but but, bare one more minute: the biggest and greatest difference make the people who themselves have long history in the city, right? I -for gods know what reason- met one of the strangest families ever. the family's constant drama and happenings make my family seem dull. I lived on the top floor of their home in a guest house... it took days for me to figure out the relationships in that household, and even then i hadn't learnt it all. it was a big building where three brothers and their (extended) families were living pretty closely. Oh the drama and colourful history! the stories kept me entertained for hours when i was waiting for my belated train with one of the members of the family. the stories include love, forced marriages, poisoning attempts, losing a a great great fortune, amazingly strong family ties and loyalty, betraying, forgiving, death, lost souls, acceptance...but what i found the most intriguing was the strong feeling of love, various kinds, but so very strong. oh, what a family, what special wonderful people.

that makes a city more special.
and i miss it already.

Wednesday, November 21, 2007

Bollywood Movies




I love going to movies in India, it’s such an experience! The movies a re almost 3h long, and have an interval in the middle. And many of the theatres are amazing, have A/C and the most comfortable chairs ever. The movies are often very entertaining, have music, dancing, singing, fighting, lots of drama…

Here are my favorites:

Not so good:

  • Bhool Bhulaiya
  • Saawariya
  • Dhol (really bad)
I recommend you to watch one or two bollywood films, they are so much fun!

Friday, November 09, 2007

Varanasi animals...


From my diary in Varanasi:
This morning, like so many previous mornings, i woke up to the sound of monkeys tapping my window. Sometimes the monkeys fight and make such horrible noise in the middle of the night when the city is theirs while people sleep. A few days back we had to postpone english lessons i was suppose to give because the monkeys had invaded our classroom. But from far away or behind a window the monkeys are sweet and a joy to look at.
We also have a regular evening guest at the German Bakery: a holy cow. She has realized that the delicious left-overs are thrown away in the late evening, so she stands guard by the door with her beautiful horns.
Around almost each corner one can see new born puppies, that are quite unlikely to survive more than a month in the city. But varanasi is a good place to die, if the body is put in the holy river then one is free from the circle of life and gets into heaven. lucky puppies!
One can often see buffaloes enjoying their baths in river Ganga, or marching slowly in the streets towards the water. Mice are living in almost every restaurant and kitchen. They are sweet and tiny and fast. Did you know that the god Ganesh also had a mouse?